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it's fucking video games, baby


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READ THE RULES


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>Advice on building or upgrading
Post your build list or current specifications, including a monitor: https://pcpartpicker.com/
https://userbenchmark.com/ is ran by a huge Intel shill / AMD hater. We don't know his review autism, but now you know his, the numbers are accurate otherwise.

>Motherboards
Don't pair a K CPU with a B Mobo chipset, but pcpartpicker should auto-warn you about compatibility.
mATX / iTX is "cheaper" but are still ultimately gimmicks that fill a niche, and have less room for different parts / cabling (especially if you're a new builder). ATX is the preferable as the default.

>CPUs
Intel is limping along, AMD is the name of the game. AMD X3D CPU's aren't mandatory if you're looking for an area to save money, you can still get a most of the performance for a notably lower price with a non-X3D CPU.

>CPU coolers
Avoid liquid coolers with a single 120mm fan. Recent chinky AIO's have undercut the market while still being good quality, but the number of models has flooded the market - make sure you're getting the exact one that reviewed well, since many sound the same but have lower performance.

>RAM
It's not lookin' good. Bite the bullet and get scalped, or wait and hope the economy collapses (2 more weeks bro), flooding the market (at which point your paper money is worth nothing anyways).
RAM that hasn’t been made yet, bought with money that doesn’t exist, for data centers that haven’t been built yet, that can't be plugged in because national infrastructure can't handle the load, powered by fuel that hasn't been extracted yet, all to make unprofitable slop and jeetscams that your gramps will see on Faceberg and send you thinking is real, and paid for by the taxpayer at every step, because if it doesn't succeed, the economy hasn't grown in a decade, but is built on promises that all fall through at once, and all the moneyprinter printing hits us like the ground hit Wall Street Bankers during the crash.
SNAFU, the trillionaire CEO said it's not a bubble, so it's not a bubble.

>SSDs / HDDs
SSD for files / programs you're actively using, HDD for cheaper and higher-capacity long-term storage. Just a 1TB SSD is pretty standard, but SSD prices have also hit by the RAM squeeze. Avoid outdated Samsung 970 Evo Plus & cheapest poorfag NVMe SSDs.
https://ssd.borecraft.com/
https://serverpartdeals.com/

>GPUs
The prices are never going back down bro. Keep in mind what games you actually play and what resolution you're targeting, before overspending on an overkill GPU. The name of the game right now is VRAM, with many vidya releases starting to ask for (but not requiring) over 8GB for texture stability, even at 1080p.
NVidia aka NJewdia aka NJudea aka Team Green aka NGreedia aka Jensen Huang's Wild Ride aka Le Chateau de Merde aka nvidia still reigns supreme in terms of high-end performance and AI genning, but their products have definitely taken on a premium, even before scalping and supply shortages, even before their drivers getting worse, and even before them acting like they have a monopoly they haven't got. DLAA is alright, Fake Frames are cancer that should be avoided, Upscaling slowly isn't a meme but should still be avoided (it might also be taking steps backwards if they keep using AI code; Preset L is still the best). The 50 series finally have PhysX now, but is still less of a hardware leap over the 40 series due to NVidia's overreliance on AI.
As of writing AMD / Team Red finally got their shit together and released GPU's that aren't unstable, sub-optimal embarrassments - the 9070 & 9070XT are extremely efficient and competitive for gaming at their upper-midrange hardware grade and are much less scalped, but do keep in mind that if you're planning on using it for AIslop, AMD is still lagging behind heavily, and while FSR4 isn't a joke like FSR3, it's not DLAA.
Intel is a newcomer with the Arc line of GPU's, aiming at competing at the ultra-budget level.

Avoid: GPUs that were used for shitcoin mining, NVidia 40Ti-non-Super's and NVidia XX50's, NVIDIA GPUs in general if you're a Linuxfag.

>PSUs
Not worth buying a new PSU unless it's ATX 3.0 compliant. Avoid Untested / Bronze / Silver units like the tech-waste cancer they are. Aim for 50-75% PSU utilization at full system load.
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ (archive: https://archive.is/jzJ2L )
https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/ (archive: https://archive.is/QrPHX)
>12VHPWR
DO NOT USE ANGLED 12VHPWR ADAPTERS
Fully seat a 12VHPWR connector in its socket, otherwise the connection can melt. Be careful with them on principle.

>Case (from $ to $$$)
mATX: Lian Li DAN A3, Gamdias Athena M4M
ATX: Lian Li Lancool 216 / 207, Fractal Torrent / Meshify 3
AVOID: 'Silent' cases, fanless cases, Corsair 4000D airflow, Montech AIR 903 Base (awful stock fans).

>A Smile
Priceless

>Monitors
Avoid: panels with less than 120Hz refresh rates, without a single DisplayPort input and Variable Refresh Rate technology (G-Sync/FreeSync). Check professional reviews for any monitor before you buy at sites like TFTCentral, pcmonitors.info, Monitors Unboxed, or RTINGs.
The bottom tier monitor for any decent gaming build has a 144Hz+ 24" 1080p IPS panel, of which there are many on market for around $125 (some great ones go even as low as $100). Aim for a panel with low response times and perceived motion blur mode (Black Frame Insertion). Decent 2160p (4K) gaming monitors start at around $500.
TP has the best refresh rate of any panel, but shit image quality (weak contrast and colors). The cheapest if you're looking for a ultrabudget pick, but IPS has caught up and isn't much more for much better. Ultra-high ends have decent color accuracy, but are ultra-overkill.
VA has good contrast and blacks, but shit viewing angles, better for TV than gaming.
IPS has good colors, but cheaper ones suffer from IPS Glow, where the corners / edges are slightly illuminated at all times, making them vaguely lighter / non-perfect blacks. Currently the general standard.
OLED has good HDR (including infinite contrast / le inky blacks) and nearly instant pixel response times. However, potential burn-in if any area is kept static gives them a lifespan, and 27" and up is your only choice.
MicroLED has near-comparable quality to OLED, no burn-in and lasts much longer until it dims with time, but is still new to the market and are extremely overpriced (as in, 5 figures starting range, 6 figures high end - enough to buy a high-end OLED, let it burn in, then get a non-ripoff MicroLED years down the line once the tech is there).

tl;dr: They all suck in some way. IPS is the standard, OLED if you've got money to spare.

>OS
- Linux: You should know what you're doing already.
- Windows: Win10LTSC + debloating software / scripts to reclaim performance. Do not use Win11. Install Ventoy / Rufus on a flash drive, then transfer the iso files to it. Activate with https://github.com/abbodi1406/KMS_VL_ALL_AIO/releases
- Mac: ishygddt

Previous thread: >>301853
Replies: >>314876 >>315087
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>>314869 (OP) 
>Dualshock 4 stopped working a few days back for context, I'm a psycho who uses it with PC, not a consolefag (I just prefer symmetrical)
>luckily just the microUSB connector broke (not stick drift yet), so it's just a few bucks and an easy swap-out
>nothing to do for a few days as I wait on delivery, so check the alternatives, since it's been a hot minute since I last looked

>everything is either
<$100+ aka more then a new throwaway Dualshock 4 (Steam Controller)
<asymmetrical (oversaturated as fuck) 
<lacks rumble because "competitive" (Tarantula 8K PC and others)
<brick design with no ergonomics (Scuf Omega and others)
<reviews like dogshit
It's kinda shocking how far behind the controller market is, even as consoles are set to commit industry suicide by next generation. DS4's been around over a decade now and even though it has huge ares it could be iterated on, it's not really been beaten outright yet.
Right now the most "viable" replacement seems to be the Tarantula Pro XBox (ironic given the name + layout, but at least it has rumble) but it's still got the issues of useless top buttons and chunky design to the point just getting another new Dualshock 4 still seems to have a case to be made for it. Also it's 1000Hz polling rate instead of 8000Hz polling rate on the 8K PC counterpart (I don't know why either). Not even seen adaptive triggers once in any marketing material for alt-controllers (seems to just be a Dualsense for symmetricals), and since I've never tried them, I don't know the value of the meme.
Replies: >>314905 >>314991
>>314876
check the 8bitdo controllers, maybe you will find something you like.
Replies: >>314919
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>>314905
Believe me Anon, I'm more than aware;
<tl;dr reviews like dogshit

<huge shelf of useless plastic on the outer-bottom sides of the face because it wants to be a cross between a rounded SNES and a PSX controller
<wireless / battery pack versions are for fake gamers on a timer, the only wired one being the 8BDP24XB (and when the 8BDP2/3 are wired in, it swaps between X-Input and D-Input depending on if Steam is open or not)
<shitty D-Pads
<loud buttons (that you can hear over headphones)
<at best has a polling rate of 250Hz, which is the same as the Dualshock 4 at it's worst; and some reviews indicate it falls short even of that https://gamepadla.com/8bitdo-pro-3.html
<closedsource dedicated companion software required for functionality (aka fake & gay)
<not a deciding factor, but an opinion-sourer that I had to look at pre-41% tech shrek's face in the first result of the 8BDPro2 reviews
Their niche seems to be going for the aforementioned SNES / PSX emulation market and emulation in general with wide cross-platform support in general; not an endgame controller competing with the DS4. The only thing they've really got going for them otherwise (aside from the bare-minimum of TMR sticks) is are the undercontroller ergonomics.

So yeah, Tarantula Pro XBox is still the best of a bad bunch for symmetrical right now, and is still even with / worse than a DS4. The Tarantula Ultra 8K seems (?) like it could do something, but IIRC it's still lightweight (unconfirmed), at least indicating no rumble or other non-competitive features.


This is a good useful website for controllers btw:
https://gamepadla.com/
>>314876
How do you handle stick drift on the dualshock 4? Modding the sticks?
Replies: >>314994 >>315050
>>314991
If it isn't too severe, recalibrate your deadzones in software. If it's worse, then yeah, you'll have to physically fix the sticks.
Replies: >>315050
Oh, also, I should note that even when used on platforms that don't support recalibration, like the PS4 console, the gamepad itself has internal firmware calibration that persists across platforms and can also be edited with certain tools, though the exact tool depends on which model of PS4 gamepad you have.
If the 5800X3D had the single core of a 14900k, it would be worth paying the tax; but for emulation I'm considering the latter.
Replies: >>315001
>>314997
What are you trying to emulate and at what target resolution?
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>>314991
tl;dr just pop the thing open and keep it clean; I'm on my third one now but
>first one I didn't know what I was doing, drifted ~2-3 years in because I didn't maintain it, tried soldering it but burnt the board because reasons but learnt a lot of life lessons along the way
>second one lasted ~6+ years without drift just with proper maint since I knew what I was doing by then
>begrudgingly bought a third one about 2 years back because the alt-market was shit then (and it's still shit now) and nothing's better
I'll maintain that a few big bottles of chemical-grade 100% isopropyl rubbing alcohol was one of the best purchases I've ever made; shit should be put next to duct tape, superglue and WD40 as "mantools that can be used for basically anything". Set aside 1-2 days a year where you do a full sweep (new years, spring cleaning etc), and on top of neatening up your space, pop open all your regular electronics and dust em out / use a small brush (flat not sharp, I've found the best to be some chick's makeup brush) to brush everything up with rubbing alcohol / tweezers to pull out hairs. You should be sweeping out your PC semi-regularly anyways and keeping on top of thermal paste yearly; but just add your mouse / keyboard / controllers + a rubbing alcohol rubdown of your screens to the rotation and it'll work great.
Most of the damage that causes stick drift (or any problems in tech really from my experience at this point) just seems to be a tiny loose hair or some grit scratching shit up. Remove the problem before it's a problem, and it ain't a problem no more. I had it a few times with the second one where I thought it was drift, but isopropyl actually fixed it.

That, and >>314994
Oh, and I'm not sure if it helps, but I use rubber thumbstick extenders too (uneven size, because again, I'm a fucking psycho; short convex left / extra tall concave right). Probably goes towards lessening impact / heavy use, since they require you to move more to cover less ground.
Replies: >>315065
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>The BDXL format for recordable Blu-ray discs allows 100 GB and 128 GB write-once discs,
OK what do I need to buy to burn 128GB blue rays?
Replies: >>315059 >>315064
>>315058
I'm also interested in this. I heard that optical disks are the most long-lived storage media, so I have been thinking of using them to leave my hoarded data to my grandchildren.
Replies: >>315060
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>>315059
>I heard that optical disks are the most long-lived storage media
<The inconspicuous scratches waiting to make it obsolete after 5 uses
Replies: >>315063
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>>315060
Get the Verbatim M Discs.
Replies: >>315066
>>315058
There's little point if you have HDD's and SSDs for storage (unless its somehow more cost-effective and I'm not aware, or you're planning to share with someone irl)
Replies: >>315066
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>>315050
I'm only on my second DS3 in the last 14 years. Other than some contact issues it's been smooth sailing.
It really is fucked for us isnt it?
Replies: >>315076
>>315063
This. Aside from Verbatim/Ritek's M-DISC format, there's also Pioneer's DM for Archive. Note that both require a matching compliant drive and media. Aside from optical media for somewhat shorter terms (~30-50 years depending on environmental conditions) there's also tape formats such as LTO, which are surprisingly affordable for medium-tier data hoarders if you use drives/media from a generation or two behind the latest. Finally, especially for cheap offsite backups, remember cloud storage can be used with clientside encryption and even integrated into automatic backup workflows.

>>315064 
HDD/SSD are ticking timebombs that can die at literally any second. Never ever trust them for long-term offline "cold" storage, always keep them plugged in for continuous online S.M.A.R.T. monitoring. If you accumulate data you care about between regular backup (RAID is not a backup) intervals, you must also use RAID so that when (not if, WHEN) a drive silently dies you won't lose data and can simply "resilver" your array with a replacement drive before your array runs out of redundancy.
Replies: >>315087
>>315065
Controllers aren't too hard to repair. For the most part some cleaning and basic soldering can fix any issue and your controllers will outlive you.
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wew
Replies: >>315083
>>315082
China numbah one!
>>314869 (OP) 
Maybe the OP should also have a few words about ARM & RISC-V SBCs, even if only a reminder that they are also way too fucking overpriced on top being still way too experimental for most people.
>>315066
>cloud storage can be used with clientside encryption and even integrated into automatic backup workflows.
Usenet is particularly good for that, as anything you upload gets propagated through multiple servers handled by different companies. You need to pay for that though, but instead of paying monthly you can just pay for bandwidth in advance. And you definitely want some proper encryption for that.
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